walk, sit, stand

Here are some tips for your next trip to Juba:
-stand in the shade, not the sun.
-if you're walking, walk on the bumpiest part of the road - that's where the fewest cars are likely to drive
-when a drunk guy starts following you on your walk, get as much space between you and him as possible.
-when you're sitting and the flies start to swarm... let them.  unless they're swarming your face or getting in your drink, then you can flick them away.
-it's ok to greet people, but I generally use these rules: only greet children if they greet you first. Only greet men if their tone sounds respectful. Greet women without discrimination.
-never assume anything is safe from tiny ants. They will eat your food, even if it's sealed.
-if you charge your Kindle through your computer, do it without your computer plugged in, so that your Kindle doesn't blow up.
-when you hear a bump in the night... assume it's a monkey or a mango.
-don't argue with the expats, they are all convinced they know more than you.... about everything.
-when your driver is driving - do not leave your hand hanging out the window, or your arm, or any body part.  While your driver is primarily concerned with keeping you safe - this really only applies to the road, and he will let your arm get snagged by trees and branches, or splashed by mud puddles as he deems appropriate.
-when you visit Logali House, do not expect the waiters to come to you.
-there's one seat where the air conditioner unit drops on people in Logali.  Figure out where it is, and keep your computer away from it.
-don't argue with police, you will not win.

Last, but not least... don't make up your mind too quickly.  About how your day went, about whether you have an amoeba or a parasite, about how you feel about this country- about anything.  This place is full of contradictions, it's confusing and crazy... but in some ways, it's also very good to live in Juba.

Addis Ababa

"Is that where Arabian Nights happened?"  My little brother asked me.  "No, G, that's Ali Ababa."  It's not Arabian nights, but there is a different feel about this city.  The first thing I thought when I walked out of the airport was, "where's all the noise?"  Quiet.  Calm.  Posh.  Measured.  European.  Plentiful. 

I've never been to any country where the women were so beautiful - it's completely overwhelming, and I've caught myself staring at these deep-eyed Ethiopian women several times.  Hopefully they haven't noticed.  Their features are so delicate, and their hair is not quite like most African hair - it's a bit softer, so many more women wear it naturally and curly, which I love.  The men are also beautiful, but it's not quite so shocking as the women.

The streets are paved, the buildings are built several stories, the cafes serve multiple kinds of tea and coffee.  The merchandise is beautiful and good quality, the taxis are plentiful, the spas are high tech, and the power stays on.  I feel a little bit like I've been introduced to food for the first time.  Everything is so delicious - the cakes, the pastries, the lasagna, the coffee.  I would definitely not lose my Africa weight if I lived here!

The clubs are posh, and it's safe to stay out all night.  There are strobe lights and real cocktails and real bouncers.  You can stay out all night without fear that some drunk police officer is going to stop and harass your driver.  booya.

I arrived Friday afternoon, and Lisa and I went immediately for coffee and snacks (what I know as samosas are called 'sambusas' here)... then a quick happy hour with Lisa's fun friends at Black Rose, and we were off to a fancy Italian dinner.  After that, there was an 'old school' party, which I initially thought meant we were going to hang out with boring old people... not so!  It meant a throwback to 90s music, which was pretty awesome (yes, we danced to several Will Smith songs).  After the music got lame, we went to another club called Flirt which is more like a lounge, and then Lisa and I felt the need for some serious dancing, so she got us into the VIP lounge at H20.  These club names are so funny.

Well, by the time we woke up and ate breakfast (brought directly to Lisa's room, oh yeah!) on Saturday, it was time for lunch at a little French bistro called La Mandoline.  I got soup n salad, Lisa got fish - but the best part was the dessert.  Incroyable!  Then it was an afternoon of shopping - we went to Mercato, the biggest open air market in Africa.  I didn't find too much loot there, but had a lot more success at the oldest coffee shop in the country, Tabaca, and the silver market (oh yes).

One of the great things about working for Chemonics is that we do these incredible projects all over the world, and someone who doesn't even work on that project gets to enjoy learning about it and meeting the people who work on it.  So - one of our projects is a regional trade hub project, and part of what it does is encourage entrepreneurs in the fashion industry.  So I got to meet one of the designers and visit his shop - he has recently been featured in really cool magazines, and is getting quite a following in the U.S.!

Saturday night held more partying for us, and then Sunday was a spa day for me.  I went to Boston Day Spa, where an hour long massage costs approximately $14.  Again, incroyable.  Monday was mostly spent in the airport and on planes (yes, who knew a 2 hour flight could take 8 hours? thanks, Ethiopian airlines), but I'm really happy to be back in Juba once again.  I had this strange feeling of being ready to come home, home to Juba.  I think that's a good sign :)

*Must note that none of these pictures are mine - I forgot to take any!

worries...

Fair warning - this is a bit of a random post...

I always know when I'm worried, because I'll wake up with a headache from grinding my teeth.  TMI?  Sorry.  I think you can tell a lot about life by what you are worried about, right?  So I've been having all these hilarious dreams while in Juba - and here are some of the things that I've been dreaming about:
-getting lice (at least 3 dreams about this)
-recently discovered a hole in my mosquito net, so naturally dreamed that I got malaria
-roommates being moved out when I come home
-missing beach vacation with the family
-my leg swelling up with worms
-getting fleas (can humans even get fleas?)
-getting bitten by one of the street dogs
-something about wandering the streets of Juba alone at night

I'm in Addis Ababa for the weekend (more posts about that later :), and one morning I woke up and had about 5 minutes when I couldn't remember where I was!

M-V-P

I'd like to acknowledge that this is my 100th post!  Thank y'all for adventuring along with me!

Most Valuable Proposal.  That's right, folks, I've had another one.  In addition to the variety of stalkers (who call at midnight and 6 a.m., and all times in between), today I had my most expensive proposal yet.  It started with me taking a seat in the reception area of an NGO.  The two men sitting there greeted me, and I greeted them back.  Then, jumping right in, the bolder one (who I later found out was named Daniel Garang) said, "I am looking for a white girl. You are still very young, let me give you some advice:  you still have time to marry a Sudanese man."

Now, I do not like being called a girl.  I am enough of a feminist to know I deserve a little more respect than that.  So naturally when they asked where am I from- I told them Canada.  By the time I was done my persona was Anna, the 30-year-old married woman from Toronto.  Daniel told me he would like to move to Canada, so that's why he wants a white wife.  We didn't get into the fact that there are more than just white people in Canada....

Even though I am already married, Daniel said maybe he could pay my husband and then he could marry me instead.  I told him, I am already married to a Sudanese man (conveniently named Benjamin Deng - Deng is like Smith over here).  He was shocked.  (remember the advice I got from my friend?  always married, always to someone here, always to a Sudanese)

A trade?  I don't think so, besides, my husband paid a good dowry for me.  Daniel was surprised- he didn't think white girls required a dowry.  Let's tally up the insults:  first you think I'm a kid, then you offer to trade me like a new video game, and then you say white girls aren't worth paying for.  Unacceptable!

I told him he must always pay a dowry, and I am wayyyy to expensive for him to afford.  2,000 cows expensive (this was the most outrageous amount I could imagine).  He said he'd raise me 3,000 cows.  3,000 cows!!!  That is how much Daniel wants a Canadian wife.  Wow.  Best offer I've gotten yet, out of any country I've ever visited.

Sadly, I told him no thank you (I'm married already, remember?).  But of course I had to shop my offer around a bit, and one of my friends texted me back, "I have no cows, but can offer my life on the line."  Two in one day.  Guess this girl's still got it.

Daniel told me to pass out his number to any of my 'sisters' who might be interested in marrying a Sudanese man.  I can't promise you 3,000 cows (I've got on my lucky socks today), but at least an entertaining date!  Holla back if you want his number.  It's written in my notebook.

Locked up abroad

Not me.  But this is one of the scariest things that can happen to a traveler.  My friend Etienne told me his story.  (I seriously think we could send this to the tv show - a new twist!  a French citizen locked up in America.  Does anybody know somebody who works there?)

Etienne was driving through New Orleans when a car pulled up in front of him too fast, and he hit the car.  The lady driving was not upset or injured, and Etienne says the car was just dented in the bumper.  Police showed up, and before he knew it - he was being ushered into the back of a police car.  Etienne thought he was headed to the station to give a statement, but he was sent to a temporary detainee cell - this cell was about 10x10 square feet, and there were 4 guys in there.  Since it was a transit cell, most of the guys came and went (read: had bail posted for them) within 24 hours.  He said he was the only white collar person there - most guys had been picked up for drug charges.

You get one phone call per week, so he looked up the French embassy - but it was Friday afternoon, and the embassy was closed.  Etienne left a voicemail saying he was a French citizen needing help, but he never heard from the embassy.  The next week, he was moved to a longer-term but still a transit detainee cell - this one had about 24 guys in it.

He also got to go before a judge in traffic court, where he was finally explained the reason for his detention: the police reported that he was violent, agressive, and uncooperative.  He also found out that he had a fine of $250.  Etienne says he could easily have paid the fine if he had known about it!  So, with his next Friday's phone call - he called a bail bondsman - but since they only receive 10% commission (about $25), nobody would come let him out.

So, once he had served his two weeks in American jail - they released him, gave him his things, and let him go free.  He still had to pay that $250, then he recovered his car from the impound lot (fortunately didn't have to pay that one, since he proved he was in jail), grabbed a shower at the local YMCA, and got out of New Orleans.

Now:  I realize I only heard one side of the story, but can you imagine if this was you?  scary!