back to the beginning.

tomorrow I'm going back to Gulu for the NUTI goodbye party. It's hard to explain how excited I am about this. This is the first place I ever went in Africa, my first and dearest friends (so far) in Africa, and the party of the year. I would trade Christmas to go to this party. So, I'm traveling 9 hours by car and plane and will hopefully make it. I will battle both Nairobi traffic - on a Friday, no less - and Kampala traffic. I'm not sure if I'll sleep tonight!

... update from Nairobi airport - I made it this far! My driver this morning was HILARIOUS. His name is Jao, and he owns 4 businesses: a car hire company in Nairobi, a mobile phone company in Kampala, a hospital equipment supply company in Kenya, and another one which I forgot. He told me that tomorrow, he will be presented to his tribe (the Kikuyus), to become one of the respected men of the clan. To do this, the family gives a goat. Then he will also have to give a goat to the community. I wish I could attend, as it will be a great festival!

I asked Jao about other ceremonies of the Kikuyus, and he said that when the male child is born - you give a goat, also at circumcision - goat. Then also when the man becomes an elder of the clan - you guessed it, another goat. I asked if poor families are able to have their male children gain respect in the tribe, and he said no - there's not a way unless you can provide all these goats.

Anyway - all for now, I will send updates after the weekend. Hopefully someone there will take pictures of the festivities, as I have not brought a camera.

Dinner in Nakuru

The conference I'm attending is located in a town called Nakuru. In my mind, it's one step above Gulu in luxury - yet my colleagues tell me it's the 4th largest city in Kenya!

Tonight my colleagues Francis and Charles asked me, "So, Abigail, what do you know about Kenyans?" Their sly grins made me think I should answer with only good attributes... so I mentioned how well-educated many people are, as well as their diversity in tribes and ethnicities. They prompted me with athleticism, which we discussed for a while (the Kalengins are typically the most athletic tribe), and I told them of my experience with the Kenyan marathon runners growing up in Richmond. I also mentioned how most Kenyans are very well-traveled - which they loved.

They taught me about the diaspora, which apparently has huge roots in Minnesota, Iowa, and Arizona. Then they asked me, "And what else? Do you think we are patient and hard-working?" I was dying on the inside, but I had to say - you know what, I have not had that experience yet. They told me that Kenyans are truly an industrious people - mostly the Kikuyu tribe. Then we discussed unemployment, the US economic recession, and the poor quality of Chinese roads. Great dinner, and great colleagues.

suitcases

I think I've written a few times about packing, but possibly never on what makes a good suitcase. Unfortunately, the best way to learn this is by trial and error - but maybe my errors will help you. Last Wednesday, I was going to walk to work with my suitcases- but after all the mistakes which you will read about below - I was too ashamed, and had to hitch a ride. Don't let this happen to you!

I packed all my things into a small suitcase whose handle was too short - miskake #1, and the most egregious. With a short handle your balance will be off, and you will have difficulty not bumping your suitcase into your own feet. Also, if you're wheeling two suitcases- they will be at different distances away from your arms, which makes navigation difficult. On Wednesday, I tripped over my own feet about 7 times.

Mistake #2 a suitcase that does not stand on its own. This particular suitcase is top-heavy, meaning that it topples forward at every possible chance. I've mitigated this by packing heavy items at the back, but it's incredibly frustrating to set your suitcase down and have it fall at every street corner.

Mistake #3 bumbling wheels. Imagine my frustration when the suitcase in question tipped over at the first bump or sidewalk crack. Shameful.

Along with #2, mistake #4 is balance of the wheels. If you do go over a speedbump, the suitcase should not wobble from side to side like an awkward King Tut dance. I don't ever want to turn around and have to steady my own penguin-waddling suitcase.

So, moral of the story - do not be fooled by fancy gadgets like a compas in the handle- cool idea, right? wrong. Stick to the 4 principles of handle length, weight, wheels, and balance - and you should have a smooth ride.

the windy city (part 2)

So Jean had planned lots of fun activities for our time together in Chicago - she's a great person to visit. Friday, we went out to an amazing lunch at this place called Bakin & Eggs (couscous salad with cilantro lemon dressing? yes.) then we were off to the Cubs game, in the rain & wind & 40 degree temperature. We loved watching the Wrigley Field officials de-tarp, re-tarp, and fold-the-tarp all over the field. They weren't very effective at rolling up the tarp... but I guess that's a lot to remember. It was so cold that we didn't last very long - watched an inning and then took our poor selves home to de-thaw. After a bit of naptime (perfect for a day like that), we made a lasagna and then took ourselves out to the movies.

Saturday was perhaps the most perfect day we could have asked for - 65, and sunny with a nice breeze. Jean and I ate leftover lasagna and then headed downtown to see the sites. First stop was the Chicago zoo - where I saw my very first polar bear. She was precious, and I wanted to take her home. Then we went over to Navy Pier and wandered our way to the very end. We took an architecture boat tour of the city, which was amazing (pictures are interspersed).

Then we decided to walk the Magnificent Mile, hang out for a bit in Millennium park, and generally enjoy the more touristy side of the city. What a great place to live- from the many, many unique restaurants and bars, to the beautiful Lake Michigan, to the totally relaxed attitude of the residents - I loved this visit.

I'll post pictures as soon as I have a good internet connection.

Chi-town (part 1)

So, off to Chicago for a long weekend to visit my friend Jean. Jean and I have been friends since our freshman year of college, and I've been promising to visit for a while - it's time! My trip started out with one of the more hilarious cab rides of my life. As I hopped in, the cabbie asked me, "Are you republican?" Apparently he's looking for a third wife, but only if she's republican. I turned him down.

So I got to Chicago last night, and we drove straight into west Lakeview, which is the neighborhood where Jean lives. I especially enjoyed the hilarious signboards that we passed on our way back - taxidermy, a prostate clinic, a massage parlor called 'Latin touch.' We got real, true, deep dish Chicago pizza for dinner (which I learned is all about the order of the ingredients). 36 hours later I'm still full - it was amazing. I might move here just for the pizza.

Today I got to go to school with Jean, who teaches middle school social studies. It was both awesome and hilarious to see Jean totally in her element - she's wonderful with the kids, and they adore her. We have lots of plans for the next couple of days - but I'll save the stories for another post.

noah's ark part 2

I was awakened this morning by the sound of rain. Inside my room. Eyes opened and immediately I'm in emergency mode - there is water POURING from the light fixtures in the entrance area of my room. Called the front desk, and then decided I couldn't wait for them to arrive since the water was already seeping into the carpet and through my suitcase. I guess I knew I wouldn't be heading back for a while - grabbed my computer, phone, & money and fled. This is why you always sleep with such things nearby - our security people would call it a grab bag. It was like running through the rain, which at least provided proof and sympathy to the hotel people. Now I'm sitting in the lobby, soaked, watching them run back and forth with umbrellas to try to figure out the problem. (I offered to help, but they declined) I keep expecting others to downstairs with the same problem - but it seems to just be me at the moment. it's kind of funny.