Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

August 7, 2012

pieces

Every time I leave a country, I feel like I'm leaving a piece of my heart behind there. It sounds silly, but it's completely true:  there's a little piece of my heart at the top of Machu Picchu, waiting for the sun to come back out from behind those rainclouds. There's a splinter of my heart in Greece, sitting by the Mediterranean sea. I left a shard behind in Kenya, where I know that my friend Sheila will always welcome me 'back home' with open arms. There's a slice of my heart in El Salvador, probably gorging itself on pupusas right now. Of course there's a fraction left in Spain - not just in Salamanca, but in Barcelona and Sevilla and Cordoba. Another piece is floating down the Zambezi river. My heart will never be the same after all those weeks and months spent in northern Uganda - those tiny towns of Pader, of Kitgum, of Gulu, of Amuru - and all the pothole-filled roads in between are still holding on to part of my heart that I will never get back. There's even pieces left in places that I've spent little amounts time - like Milano or Prague or Tegucigalpa or Drumnadrochit.

You might think this is very bad for a heart - all those cuts, all that scar tissue. Do you know how the body operates when you're weightlifting?  Muscles get all these tiny rips and tears, then the effect of rebuilding over those tears is how we build muscle. I think my heart has gone through something of that process. Not to say that it doesn't hurt - can you imagine feeling like you're never quite whole because part of you is longing for another place in the world?  Your other friends from Gulu, your other favorite coffee shop from Milano, your other cute salsa-dancing crush in Salamanca, your comfy pillow from Nairobi? It's a horrible feeling, especially in the midst of leaving.

Humans naturally build community - we seek like and not-so-like minded people to bolster our lives and make us feel whole. Here in Juba, it was hard for me to make meaningful friendships because people live such transient lives - you basically need a backup group of friends for when all your A Team friends go on vacation or are traveling to Bor.


I mitigate the pain of leaving by leaving a door open for my return - I don't think there's a country I've ever been to, and said, "Well, that's enough of that place - I am sure I'll never come back."  I could not say that, even if I tried. Leaving is the worst feeling in the entire world, but it also serves to remind of what bonds can be forged in unusual settings. I've met up with friends from abroad all over the world. So, with one week and one day until I leave South Sudan... my heart is in pieces around the world, and it feels like it's breaking all over again to depart.  So what do you do?  Cry a little, let your heart rip again, promise to come back, and look forward.

April 29, 2012

Breakfast

There are few things I enjoy quite as much as a decadent breakfast.  It's not just the abundance of food, the gracious service, or being somewhere elegant and bathed in sushine, no - it's the leisure of it all.  My favorite thing to do when friends come to visit is take our time making coffee or tea, whip up some whole wheat pancakes, make a frittatta (thanks, Martha, for teaching me this skill), bacon, and then toss some fruit on top of plain yogurt and granola.  It's the thing that I never do on work days, the sumptuous feeling of taking our time through the morning, and the delightfully full way to start a day.

My favorite breakfast of all time was at the Serena in Zanzibar.  I haven't written much about my trip there, honestly because there wasn't much to tell - my two friends and I sat on the beach, drank rum n coke, swam in the crystal waters, and soaked in the incredible sunshine for 3 glorious days.  But the first morning we were there - oh, that breakfast.  You wake up to the most blue water you've ever seen, right out the balcony (glad to be out of bed, since we got a 1 person room for 3!).  You rub the sleep out of your eyes and strategize how to walk downstairs as if 2 of your party had just met you for breakfast rather than slept at the hotel with you.  You are served a delightful cappuccino probably with the shape of a leaf or a heart made into the foam (which you try not to destroy by pouring sugar over it).  The Indian Ocean breeze is wafting through ceiling-to-floor windows, and fishing boats that look remarkably like pirate dinghies pass by.  The blue water is a lovely breakfast companion.

You walk over for your first course - begging your stomach to take it slowly and enjoy all this food.  The fruit is fresh mango and honeydew and orange and papaya, and it's ripened to perfection.  Second course - some eggs perhaps?  Now, all the eggs in all of east Africa taste the same to me (all the same ingredients - I could write a book about 'spanish omelette, please') - but you eat them with the knowledge that the cook made these especially for you - just you.  By now you are on your second coffee, or maybe you've switched to juice in the meantime - what a selection of juices.  And finally, when you know your stomach really should be winding down - that's when your custom-ordered waffles arrive.  You drizzle them in some blueberry compote, and take that one moment (the first bite moment) to recognize that this is your happy place.

Perhaps you've been talking through breakfast, or perhaps you've been sitting in silent appreciation.  It doesn't matter.  I've never experienced breakfast like that.  Other places are also nice if you're not vacationing - the Sankara in Nairobi has a delightful spread (although they only get your eggs right 1 day out of 4), but the crepe man is so friendly.  In Kampala, the Serena breakfast is also luxurious, and the staff are the kindest in the world.  In San Salvador, the Hilton Princesa is delightful - and you have to get a cup of their cafe con leche, because that's the only way to start your day correctly.  Or perhaps you're in Milano, and your breakfast is espresso and lemon cakes and focaccia bread.  Delightful and unbelievably unhealthy!  In Harare, I know I've told you about the incredible scones with real clotted cream to eat with your tea. 

But Zanzibar, wow.  Try it sometime...

December 12, 2009

Snaps from Milan

finally some pictures from Sarah & my Milano trip-- captions below, but no apologies for some of the silliness that you're about to witness.

First, a vespa ride - Chris said, 'You can't be in Italy and not ride a vespa.' so we did. Chris took each of us to the metro individually!















Next, the three ladies - Jelena, Sarah, & me






















an artistic moment - Sarah in the Studio. I love this shot.


Day 1, our trip to il Duomo - Sarah & me atop, Sarah pretending to be a toy soldier, and me amazed at the interior intricacy of the floor.













































Roasted Chestnuts - I finally understand the hype. A Milano specialty!





















another shot of the glorious Maison Sabbatini studio. Sarah & I kept saying to ourselves - we get to sleep here?!?









Sarah & Anna checking out the town. Anna was way cool for meeting us in Milan - just for the weekend!


















Jelena prepping us to be italian models










So, so much wonderful food.
Sarah & me eating gallons of gelatto, and then the scrumptious meal that Alfredo made - eaten by Chris, Jelena, Seba, Sarah (not pictured) & me





































and what documentary wouldn't be complete without a shot of us heading off into the sunset? yes, we are ridiculous - but wouldn't you be too?

October 20, 2009

bella italia!

You would think three days in Milan would easily fit into one blog post... I will try:

Sarah & I met up in the Milano airport Malpensa, and rode the shuttle bus into the city. A 40 minute drive was exactly what we needed to begin debriefing on our oh-so-different lives over the past 2 months. We landed at Stazione Centrale, which is both a bus and train station - and oh yes, it was built by Mussolini. People say this is one of the most beautiful train stations in the entire world, and they are right: the station towers above the little piazza in glistening white marble. The structure is intricate and also imposing.

Christopher & Jelena ('Yelena') picked us up in their little BMW, and took us to the Studio. Christopher & his dad Alfredo are internationally-acclaimed photographers, which I knew - but maybe I didn't realize how cool that was until I walked inside their Studio. Beautiful black and white pictures cover the walls of this huge apartment. I've never felt so totally engulfed in the world of an artist. Sarah and I slept right in the middle of the action - on a pullout couch next to the black set, and underneath some cool nude photos. It was great to get the artists' perspective on a lot of their paintings, and of course Jelena had a lot to add since she works as a model.

The first afternoon, we mostly hung out at the Studio - drank espresso and talked about life. We went out for panini's, and Sarah & I kept saying to each other: "We are in Italy!"

The next day, we all woke up around noon (don't question - just embrace it) and Chris & Jelena took Sarah & me all around Milan. We started at Armani's house (which is above his store, above his restaurant, above his hotel - he owns the whole block). Sarah & I took a few moments just to breathe the same air as Armani. Then we walked down the high fashion street - past Prada, Gucci, Fendi, and every other designer you can remember. Jelena told us that the window displays in Milano are considered even more beautiful than the ones in Paris. The streets were full of lovely Italians - little kids, old people, the middle aged - everyone has that smooth skin, and the italian phrases rippling from their mouths. I'm going to speak for Sarah too - because we agree that we could listen to people speak Italian for the rest of time.

We came upon the Duomo from behind - the church is breathtaking. The white marble sparkles in the sunlight, and the intricacy of the spires has a dizzying effect. We jetted to the top of the church, where we wandered on the roof for an hour - the best view of the city is found on top of the Duomo. We basked in the old-ness and wonder of the sculpture and architecture. You can look out onto Piazza Duomo, where there is a fountain and a beautiful archway dedicated to Emanuelo Milano. We trudged down the winding staircase, and went inside the church. Like so many cathedrals, the building has beautiful rose windows and an altar that you would really like to get married at, but what struck me was how much of everything there was - not just 3 rose windows, but 5 or 6 - not just 1 statue or 2, but multitudes. Also the floor is this beautiful and complex tiled pattern - made it hard to walk around - as I kept looking at my shoes. Finally, we went outside to see the front of the building - breathtaking again, even after we had seen the outside & the top!

Next we met up with Anna (who is living in Switzerland and decided to pop up for the weekend - love Europe). We all wandered across the piazza through the archway toward my first real gelatto experience - wow. I got Stracciatella mixed with something else delicious - it was so, so good. Then we wandered through the local castle, down some other streets, and generally got a taste of the city.

We got back to the studio in time to get ready for our night on the town - Jelena had vip passes to Club 71, which was very fun & very full of italians dancing to trance music. Sarah hadn't danced in months, and I hadn't danced anywhere near Sarah in months - and I am not sure Italy was ready for those moves, but we broke them out anyway. awesome (see here)

The next day Jelena & Chris told us that we 'had pretty much seen everything,' so Sarah, Anna, & I decided to wander the streets where the poor people shop (poor as in 150 euros for a pair of cheap boots), eat gelato, and get ourselves lost. We passed an old European car show, and checked out the various Ferrari's & Citroen's. Sarah bought italian leather boots, Anna bought everything else in sight. Just kidding - it's hard to resist the fashion!

Sunday evening, after an unbelievably tasty homemade dinner by Alfredo (Papa Sabbatini, as I like to call him), Sarah & I were models in a super fun photo shoot. This was a very new experience for me - so it was really helpful to have Jelena doing hair & makeup, Seba setting the lights, and Chris yelling 'be a monkey!' Just kidding. I loved it - every minute. For the results - see here and here.

Thanks to Chris, Jelena, Seba, Alfredo - and all of Milan - for such a fun weekend. Pictures will be uploaded eventually - until then, ciao bella!

October 5, 2009

10, 9, 8....

The days are getting shorter, the weather chilly - the wind bites your nose as you walk out the door... oh no wait, wrong introduction. The days are still long, the weather perfect, and the only thing that bites are the cruel mosquitoes. I'm getting ready to leave Uganda in 9 days (remember how it took me 2 weeks to mentally prep for this trip?).

I haven't figured out how to deal with leaving foreign countries, really. I say bye, give giant hugs, and hold back the tears. At least for Uganda I will probably come back, but I never know how soon that will be. Goodbyes are tough.

I'm normally so tired that I konk out during takeoff on the first plane ride, no meds necessary. By the time I wake up, the flight attendants are serving food I haven't seen in weeks - cheese, crackers, chocolate pudding (I never eat the chocolate pudding - it is disgusting).

Anyway - part of what's making me ready to leave Uganda is this: on the way back, I am meeting my girl Sarah in Milano, Italia for a wild weekend of italian fun. Uganda, Milan, DC? Oh yes.

Here are some pics from this trip - some of my favorite memories all around:
Breakdance for peace & positive social change














little kids, about to receive baseball caps:














Faith: my favorite



































Local Dancers - fierceness personified:






















a letter from Sarah-- Spain to Uganda


















how do I even begin to explain----