the highlights reel

Winter in Kenya is not quite like winter in the U.S.... it's about 50 degrees every day, and cloudy. essentially, not what I love about Africa. that's ok - every place has its seasons. Here are some of the highlights:

-Visit to an eco-lodge in Elementaita and my first sighting of a real, live, wild flamingo!

-2 kenyan weddings in 1 day

-climbing a volcano (Mount Longonot)

-visiting our field offices in Eldoret and Kericho

-hanging out with my beloved friends at Hekima Place

-oh yeah, and a weekend in Zanzibar... also known as paradise on earth. this picture doesn't belong to me - but here's the sense you get:

OBX

it's not a new place to me, but a 7 hour roadtrip, 4 bedroom house, and 14 friends definitely deserves its own post.

we went to the Outer Banks this weekend for Memorial Day - took Friday off, and drove down in the morning. It's normally a 5 hour drive, but this time it took about 7 hours due to all the stops we made (how can you resist a sign that says 'fresh corn' and 'fresh peaches'??). we even stopped at Sonic on the way there - love those fried cheese balls and wait staff on rollerskates. Finally we made it to the beach - I put my foot down, and said we would not grocery stop first - first stop should always be the water. What can you even say about afternoons and evenings at the Outer Banks? Every day is hotter than the one before. Every sunset is more beautiful. We were staying in Corolla (pronounced ka rah la, not like the Toyota brand - if you say it that way, people will know you're a n00b).

The first night, our whole group arrived at various times - we were the first bunch, so we went to dinner at this place called Tomato Patch Pizza - it was delish! Then, as people arrived we hit the beach for some late night star gazing - and yes, I saw a shooting star. It was so beautiful. Next day involved a quick run, and then off to the beach. The water was like ice - but I swam anyway. Must have an extra layer of blubber that allows me to do that, because I love the cold water!

That night we went to dinner at this place called Duck Deli, which had the most amazing BBQ I've had in a really long time - it was finger lickin good, for sure! Then we rustled up some of our own fun, by telling the live band that it was somebody's birthday - and they got to perform a version of Joan Jett's I Love Rock n Roll, ha! Inspired, we headed over to the local karaoke bar and sang the night away. Most people were terrible, but my roomie Victoria can really belt it out. Girlfriend always found the right key, even when the crowd was crazy. Love singing duets with you, chica!
The next day we did a little home-church, which was nice - singing & praying & reading the Bible on the porch. Then afternoon was all beach time - never enough for me, but definitely enough to get some people sunburned! Then Sunday evening we watched an incredible sunset - the Outer Banks is a group of islands off the coast of North Carolina, so one side of the island is called 'sound side' and the other is 'surf side' - so you get to watch the sunrise on the surf side, and sunset on the sound side. Sunset was incredible - I can't say that I was ever awake in time for sunrise!

Monday was departure day - but we still got some wonderful beach time in the morning (and a delicious breakfast at Breakfast & Burgers, which I highly recommend if you are willing to wait about 40 minutes for food). Amazingly, we hit almost no traffic either direction - I would say overall, a highly successful beach weekend.

coming home

there's a song by Diddy called Coming Home, and it says "Tell the world that I'm coming home." This is often how I feel after a trip.

Sometimes, I have been in the position when I thought I would not be able or allowed to come home as soon as I thought (thank you very much Milan insane airports, Vienna snowstorm, and various other crazy people/airlines). This is maybe the only thing that truly upsets me overseas - traffic jams, belligerent grantees, supercilious hotel attendants, horrible food, riots - none of this upsets me like being told I can't go home.

I love walking through the customs line at Dulles, and being told 'Welcome Home' by the Customs & Border Patrol officials. They don't know how much it means to me - but it's wonderful. The land of basketball, burgers, and beer. The birthplace of reality t.v. and the iPhone.

It always makes me chuckle - the things that people miss from home. For me, I want chipotle and a pedicure. One friend wanted to get to a concert STAT, and another said she wanted an eyebrow wax. My boss used to say that she would get smothered in hugs from her kids when she got home - that was her end goal. My favorite (other than that burrito I mentioned) is taking a shower with all my own shampoos & conditioners. That probably sounds like a very small thing - but I bet you would be surprised at the things you miss most from home.

Chicago pics

here are a few fun shots from Chicago:
Jean & the red wall.

Wrigley Field

chillin at Navy Pier

Showing the world where I'm headed

beautiful Sears Tower

there's this wall with pieces from every great site around the world - I think I'm touching the Basilica and the pyramids :)

Favorite shot of the city architecture

being silly at the great Bean

Chicago.

unpredictability

So after all that, I didn't go to Gulu... Everything worked as smoothly as possible, until I got to Kampala and found out that there had been rioting and protests in the streets all day. The roads were closed and the party canceled. I guess it's time to learn about longterm perspective. I'm spending the weekend in Kampala - and will see my friends another time.

Am posting a fun picture from the hotel bar in Nakuru - never in all my days have I seen a sign like this.

back to the beginning.

tomorrow I'm going back to Gulu for the NUTI goodbye party. It's hard to explain how excited I am about this. This is the first place I ever went in Africa, my first and dearest friends (so far) in Africa, and the party of the year. I would trade Christmas to go to this party. So, I'm traveling 9 hours by car and plane and will hopefully make it. I will battle both Nairobi traffic - on a Friday, no less - and Kampala traffic. I'm not sure if I'll sleep tonight!

... update from Nairobi airport - I made it this far! My driver this morning was HILARIOUS. His name is Jao, and he owns 4 businesses: a car hire company in Nairobi, a mobile phone company in Kampala, a hospital equipment supply company in Kenya, and another one which I forgot. He told me that tomorrow, he will be presented to his tribe (the Kikuyus), to become one of the respected men of the clan. To do this, the family gives a goat. Then he will also have to give a goat to the community. I wish I could attend, as it will be a great festival!

I asked Jao about other ceremonies of the Kikuyus, and he said that when the male child is born - you give a goat, also at circumcision - goat. Then also when the man becomes an elder of the clan - you guessed it, another goat. I asked if poor families are able to have their male children gain respect in the tribe, and he said no - there's not a way unless you can provide all these goats.

Anyway - all for now, I will send updates after the weekend. Hopefully someone there will take pictures of the festivities, as I have not brought a camera.

Dinner in Nakuru

The conference I'm attending is located in a town called Nakuru. In my mind, it's one step above Gulu in luxury - yet my colleagues tell me it's the 4th largest city in Kenya!

Tonight my colleagues Francis and Charles asked me, "So, Abigail, what do you know about Kenyans?" Their sly grins made me think I should answer with only good attributes... so I mentioned how well-educated many people are, as well as their diversity in tribes and ethnicities. They prompted me with athleticism, which we discussed for a while (the Kalengins are typically the most athletic tribe), and I told them of my experience with the Kenyan marathon runners growing up in Richmond. I also mentioned how most Kenyans are very well-traveled - which they loved.

They taught me about the diaspora, which apparently has huge roots in Minnesota, Iowa, and Arizona. Then they asked me, "And what else? Do you think we are patient and hard-working?" I was dying on the inside, but I had to say - you know what, I have not had that experience yet. They told me that Kenyans are truly an industrious people - mostly the Kikuyu tribe. Then we discussed unemployment, the US economic recession, and the poor quality of Chinese roads. Great dinner, and great colleagues.

suitcases

I think I've written a few times about packing, but possibly never on what makes a good suitcase. Unfortunately, the best way to learn this is by trial and error - but maybe my errors will help you. Last Wednesday, I was going to walk to work with my suitcases- but after all the mistakes which you will read about below - I was too ashamed, and had to hitch a ride. Don't let this happen to you!

I packed all my things into a small suitcase whose handle was too short - miskake #1, and the most egregious. With a short handle your balance will be off, and you will have difficulty not bumping your suitcase into your own feet. Also, if you're wheeling two suitcases- they will be at different distances away from your arms, which makes navigation difficult. On Wednesday, I tripped over my own feet about 7 times.

Mistake #2 a suitcase that does not stand on its own. This particular suitcase is top-heavy, meaning that it topples forward at every possible chance. I've mitigated this by packing heavy items at the back, but it's incredibly frustrating to set your suitcase down and have it fall at every street corner.

Mistake #3 bumbling wheels. Imagine my frustration when the suitcase in question tipped over at the first bump or sidewalk crack. Shameful.

Along with #2, mistake #4 is balance of the wheels. If you do go over a speedbump, the suitcase should not wobble from side to side like an awkward King Tut dance. I don't ever want to turn around and have to steady my own penguin-waddling suitcase.

So, moral of the story - do not be fooled by fancy gadgets like a compas in the handle- cool idea, right? wrong. Stick to the 4 principles of handle length, weight, wheels, and balance - and you should have a smooth ride.

the windy city (part 2)

So Jean had planned lots of fun activities for our time together in Chicago - she's a great person to visit. Friday, we went out to an amazing lunch at this place called Bakin & Eggs (couscous salad with cilantro lemon dressing? yes.) then we were off to the Cubs game, in the rain & wind & 40 degree temperature. We loved watching the Wrigley Field officials de-tarp, re-tarp, and fold-the-tarp all over the field. They weren't very effective at rolling up the tarp... but I guess that's a lot to remember. It was so cold that we didn't last very long - watched an inning and then took our poor selves home to de-thaw. After a bit of naptime (perfect for a day like that), we made a lasagna and then took ourselves out to the movies.

Saturday was perhaps the most perfect day we could have asked for - 65, and sunny with a nice breeze. Jean and I ate leftover lasagna and then headed downtown to see the sites. First stop was the Chicago zoo - where I saw my very first polar bear. She was precious, and I wanted to take her home. Then we went over to Navy Pier and wandered our way to the very end. We took an architecture boat tour of the city, which was amazing (pictures are interspersed).

Then we decided to walk the Magnificent Mile, hang out for a bit in Millennium park, and generally enjoy the more touristy side of the city. What a great place to live- from the many, many unique restaurants and bars, to the beautiful Lake Michigan, to the totally relaxed attitude of the residents - I loved this visit.

I'll post pictures as soon as I have a good internet connection.

Chi-town (part 1)

So, off to Chicago for a long weekend to visit my friend Jean. Jean and I have been friends since our freshman year of college, and I've been promising to visit for a while - it's time! My trip started out with one of the more hilarious cab rides of my life. As I hopped in, the cabbie asked me, "Are you republican?" Apparently he's looking for a third wife, but only if she's republican. I turned him down.

So I got to Chicago last night, and we drove straight into west Lakeview, which is the neighborhood where Jean lives. I especially enjoyed the hilarious signboards that we passed on our way back - taxidermy, a prostate clinic, a massage parlor called 'Latin touch.' We got real, true, deep dish Chicago pizza for dinner (which I learned is all about the order of the ingredients). 36 hours later I'm still full - it was amazing. I might move here just for the pizza.

Today I got to go to school with Jean, who teaches middle school social studies. It was both awesome and hilarious to see Jean totally in her element - she's wonderful with the kids, and they adore her. We have lots of plans for the next couple of days - but I'll save the stories for another post.

noah's ark part 2

I was awakened this morning by the sound of rain. Inside my room. Eyes opened and immediately I'm in emergency mode - there is water POURING from the light fixtures in the entrance area of my room. Called the front desk, and then decided I couldn't wait for them to arrive since the water was already seeping into the carpet and through my suitcase. I guess I knew I wouldn't be heading back for a while - grabbed my computer, phone, & money and fled. This is why you always sleep with such things nearby - our security people would call it a grab bag. It was like running through the rain, which at least provided proof and sympathy to the hotel people. Now I'm sitting in the lobby, soaked, watching them run back and forth with umbrellas to try to figure out the problem. (I offered to help, but they declined) I keep expecting others to downstairs with the same problem - but it seems to just be me at the moment. it's kind of funny.

it's all how you play the game-

I've spent almost as much time in the Amsterdam airport as at my gym over the past couple of years. Sadly, that doesn't equate homey feelings and comfort when I'm here... it always feels like a battle. me vs. the airport. today, I got here early enough to snag one of the "comfy chairs." these are in a couple of secret locations, so you have to know where to look. 1 point for abigail. turns out the "comfy chairs" are not that comfortable. 1 point for Ams. also, I sat myself next to a loud snoring gentleman. another point for Ams. And how did I forget how cold this airport is? I'm wearing 3 shirts and a sweater, and still freezing. Ams 3 vs. Abigail 1. not great. just 30 more minutes till I board the plane - maybe I'll have more success on the return trip.

time to go.

finally. I'm breaking out the old suitcases and packing list - and can I just say how excited I am? pretty stoked. My team over in Kenya needs some backup, and I'm getting on a plane in less than 48 hours... of course instead of packing, I'm sitting here like a lady of leisure and typing away on a blog. Foolish. I admit I'm slightly daunted by the idea of getting ready so quickly - it's been 8 months since I've been on a plane, and I'm not sure I even remember how to travel any more. yikes. I'm headed to sunshine, dust, rainstorms, crime, crazy hard work, a mish-mash of horrifying and delicious food, and I can't wait. just get me on the plane already! am trying to avoid thinking about doing my taxes for now... I should be back in time, but you never know. maybe I can wake up at 6 a.m. on Wednesday and do them. so, is anybody out in Kenya right now? I'd love to meet up!

more Spain

Since we lived out at the farthest northern point of Salamanca, it was great fun to go exploring outside the city. Behind our house there were these little hills (las colinas we called them in spanish), they were somewhere between hills and mountains actually - I know because I used to run up them. It was the perfect run - outside, off roads & sidewalks on dirt paths, no trees, just pass the garbage dump and then you run around these idyllic farm fields, and up a huge final hill. When I made it to the top of the last hill, there was this spectacular view of the city - you could see the cathedrals and the university and the bridge and the river. I was usually running at sunrise or sunset, when all the normally golden buildings would look rosy in the Spanish light. It was almost a honey, or tawny gold- indescribable, but beautiful. My roommates didn't run with me very often (knee problems apparently), so I found it a great place to go and pray.

There were other places to work out - our University had a track and a "gym" which was more rudimentary than many of the gyms I go to in rural Africa. Then there was also a park near our house, where my roomies and I did some workouts outside (pushups, jumping jacks, our old cross country stretches) - we scandelized the locals. Working out is not something you do in public in Spain. Ever.

One of my roommates joined a local gym (it was too expensive for me), and she would take the aerobics classes. She always came back with hilarious stories of women in full makeup and street clothes doing these dance moves. Em is such a good sport- it's tough to take jazzercise in a foreign language, but she was totally faithful.

My last run up las colinas was (thankfully) right at the end of my program - it was midday, and I was home early because I had a class cancelled. I was home just before lunch, so I decided to go for a run - not my normal hour for running, but no big deal, right? wrong. After getting followed up the block by 2 policemen (gracias, i felt so safe) - I rounded the corner, ran up the first hill, and immediately was overlooking about 17 shady characters on the next hill below me. I couldn't tell what they were up to, but they did not look friendly. I was sooooo disappointed that my spot was actually miscreant meetup locale, and I never went back.

The other workout memory I have from Spain is when my roommates & I decided to create our own workout routine in our rooms. It was a pretty intense couple hours of running in place, some pilates moves, lots of jumping jacks, pushups, and situps. Sadly, we were discouraged by our Mama (who by the way thought we were loonies) telling us that if we jumped, we would 'disturb the neighbors.' We had to keep quiet, but we were still really good at figuring out exercises to do!